Edinburgh Day 2 - Rosslyn Chapel

Touching Low Hanging Groin Vaulting. I Hope that the Hamish is for Sale. 'X' Marks the Spot. Whittling Down the Bucket List.

 11 °C

We took the bus 15A at a stop not far from the Scott Monument on Princess St. We bought a Day Pass for £3.50 (the adult single bus fare for Roslin Village is £1.50. We may as well buy the Day Pass as we didn't know if we need to take any bus ride later).

Needless to say, like most buses in major cities, you need exact change for your rides. The group of 5 wide eyed young Thai girls had to be turned away. They were inexperienced with the bus service, and didn't carry enough small change. I feel sorry for them, seeing their sad puppy eyes as they left the bus. Especially the one who picked her nose with great relish. Our eyes met, she looked at me looking at her nose picking with great curiosity; but she didn't stop her nasal housekeeping service. I'm no Karl Malden or George C Scott, but I'm nosy, so I don't need to pick my nose.

The bus 15A runs every half hour and took about 45 mins (depending on traffic) to get to the Rosslyn Chapel. Get off at the Original Rosslyn Hotel, and just at the intersection up ahead is a road sign - yes a sign! - that points to the Rosslyn Chapel. Just don't read too much into it.

Alight here @ the Original Rosslyn Hotel
(Open any photo in another window for a larger view)

William Sinclair, the founder of Rosslyn Chapel

Without exaggeration, the Rosslyn Chapel is unquestionably the most well known chapel in the Christendom. At least, post The Da Vinci Code.

When you peel off all the thin and transparent layers of amusing conspiracy theories, entertaining flight of fancy, hearsay, heresy, Dan Brown's obscenely profitable artistic license, and excellent overstretched extrapolation, what you left with in the core is a chapel with an impressive showcase of the carving skills of the Medieval artisans. The terms 'exquisite' are used frequently and accurately to depict the huge concentration of carvings in this chapel.

I was impressed. This is high praise from a jaded traveller who's blase about cities of great cathedrals like Paris and Rome. I'm so impressed that it spurs me to make rhyme:

(I see London, I see France,

 Never a chapel looks so grand !)

Anyone who reads all my travel diary entries (really? Thanks!) would grow tired of my talk of travel weariness. It's very unseemly to be this excited. Very unbecoming of me. That's what Rosslyn Chapel is doing to me. Hard to explain really.

Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus

Here's one explanation after some self-reflection while watching the tube (TV, not London underground train. I'm no train spotter). I always like cute things. Aye, I could really relate to the Japanese kawaii phenomenon. So desu ne. While it's the Japanese thing, it's spreading globally, thanks to globalisation. Which one do you like more, a dog or a puppy? Puppy, of course! That's the kawaii factor.

The Rosslyn Chapel is the kawaii version of grand Gothic cathedral like Saint Chapelle in the Île de la Cité, for example. It's so cute that I feel like putting it in my backpack and smuggled it home. While most chapels may have this kawaii edge, they tend not to wow you because they can't afford the fancy works. At least, if they're this diminutive size.

Chapel is the poor city's cathedral (in Medieval Europe, a place is qualified to be called a city when it has a cathedral. Today it's based on population). But there's nothing poor about Rosslyn Chapel. Its richness in carvings actually outshines great many greatest cathedrals of Europe if you ask me. Certainly most if not all the chapels of similar dimension.

Hamish, the Highland cow

and son, baby Hamish

Tell me which one is cuter? Papa Hamish or baby Hamish? Don't you want to put a chain around baby Hamish's neck and use it as a keychain? Or put him in your cupboard next to your teddy bear?

How much is that hamish in the highland?
the one with the exuberant fur
How much is that hamish in the pasture?
I do hope that brown cow is for sale
mooooooooooooo

Let's look at an example of how the Chapel might outshine even the large cathedrals, the decoration on the ceilings, every section has its own motif. Similarly, every pinnacle that sits on top of the flying buttress is unique. To name just 2 categories of examples. This is very unique among cathedrals, or chapels for that matter. Its variety is bewildering. It's as if the masons and artisans who built this chapel used it as advertisement for their proudest craftsmanship.

While it's tiny in dimension, it has all the structures and trappings of any decent Gothic cathedral: flying buttresses, pinnacles, stained-glass windows, vaulting, crypt, etc. It even has a baptistry, which I don't often see in large cathedrals.

the Lady Chapel is a small chapel within a small chapel. It's tiny and yet its ornate ceiling is richly decorated with exquisite pendant bosses hanging down from groin vaulting (keep your mind out the gutter please. We're in a chapel). They hang so low that you can touch it if your arms are long enough (stop it already!).


Lady Chapel, Rosslyn Chapel

Pendant Bosses and groined vaulting of the Lady Chapel

Pendant boss carved  in the shape of a Green Man in the Lady Chapel

Pendant boss carved in the shape of a lion head (or is it Dick Van Dyke?)

A simpler explanation of my zeal would be that there's a mind/mood altering machine being buried in one of them pillars. Maybe inside the famous - I should say notorious -  Apprentice Pillar. Anyone comes close to the machine will be inexplicably drawn to this chapel, making them gaga about the chapel. Dan Brown was probably touched by it (ok, punch drunk by it).

Symbologist is somebody who reads too much into things. Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar, and a pillar is just a pillar. No, it's not a launching pad of rocket for ET. Fortunately, symbology is a study, like professional Robert Langdon, is quite fictional. But Rosslyn Chapel isn't imaginary, but built in concrete masonry.

It was all the wild speculations that bring us to this Chapel. Without it, we would easily overlook this gem. Take for example, the carvings of the American Indian corn, which was carved before the Columbus voyage to the New World. Or the Masonic connections. Many carving had worn out considerably, and its vague features given the opportunity for those with the active imagination to conjure up all kinds of possible images.

Markings on one of the pillar

Here's a marking I spotted on one of the pillars. It seems to contain secert messages, could only be deciphered by the intended. What does it mean? It looks like a Masonic symbol. Is it a mark of possible secret treasure buried inside this column? 'X' marks the spot, as it were.

I bought the official guide book from the souvenir shop written by the Earl of Rosslyn (at a reasonable RRP of £5). I pored over it from cover to cover. While it discussed all kinds of speculations and various intrigues about Rosslyn Chapel (such as the more down-to-earth explanation of the origin of pre-Columbus American Indian corn carvings), it makes no mention of this odd marking (unless I've missed it). Is it just a graffiti?  An idea of a hoax made by someone who has too much time on their hands? The answer to the deepest mystery of life?

I won't tell you which pillar this marking is on. I don't want to spoil the mystery. I can tell you it's a pillar close to one of the doors. Have fun looking for it!

If you do find the treasure - may it be mind altering machine, rocket launching pad, or UFO - I want a cut or my finder's fee to be paid in full. I take bullion and cash (no USD, it depreciates too quickly). I don't take cheques, unless it's American Express traveller's cheques with the words "Not Negotiable" printed across it. Oh, they don't make them anymore? Never mind...

"And now for something completely different" - Monty Python.

I ordered a haggis sandwich for lunch at the Chapel's cafeteria. This isn't the traditional haggis stuffed in sheep's stomach. I doubt you would be able to order that in a coffee shop or indeed a restaurant. Another alternative is haggis pie, which is available many places including the frozen food section in a supermarket. Thought I just try out the local traditional favourite.

Haggis sandwich and soup of the day

The humble haggis wasn't fashionable until the national poet Robbie Burns wrote Ode to Haggis. And suddenly, every Scot and his hamish is eating haggis.

What's in the haggis? You wouldn't want to know (animal entrails are involved). But it isn't anything more gross than your run-of-the-mill sausage. I didn't really know what I was eating with so many ingredients all mixed up in it. It looks yucky and tastes so-so. I guess I just don't have the stomach (pun fully intended) for it.

Another item checked off in my bucket list. I still haven't checked off egg-nog on my Bucket List, believe it og not ¿¡

You can enjoy the rest of my photos for the day here.

MJXDM66MJMRX

Glasgow Day 5 - Merchant City Architectural Walk

Master of Architectural Placements. One Window Tax Closes, another Tax Window Opens.

9 °C

 

While there's little doubt that Glasgow is small compare to Paris. Sure, London, Paris or even the smaller cousin city Edinburgh has many more buildings that are far grander. Glasgow is therefore quantitatively inferior than either Edinburgh or Paris, but qualitatively it has its beauty and charm. In some way it outshines the contenders I mentioned. I should mention that while Edinburgh seems to be busier (with tourists), and has grander buildings, it's essentially one street - the Royal Mile - old town.

There have been some friendly rivalries between Glasgow and Edinburgh. These neighbouring English city rivalries are all too common, like Sydney and Melbourne (in Australia), Christchurch and Ackland (in NZ), etc.

At least one of the thing that I find Glasgow arguably outdoes the other great European cities is their strategic placement of buildings. Don't get me wrong, Paris is probably the best example of how landmarks could be strategically placed to maximise visual impact.

The Historical Axis in Paris that I discussed in great length in this article shows such masterful placement of architectural elements within the city to create great vista (and symbolic representation). This is just the best example in the numerous instances of such strategic positioning of public architecture.

Having said that, how could I still possibly say that a relatively smaller-scale city of Glasgow could measure up to Paris? Its very strength lies in its smaller size, and simplicity. Any kind of architectural or city planning theme would be clearly expressed without being lost in the patchworks of cluttering landmarks.

One of the strategic placement I'm referring to the positioning of a prominent public building at the intersection of a 'T' junction where the building facade faces squarely down the street. And many centres of cross roads also exploited for best visual effects. The best and most well know examples are the Glasgow Gallery of Modern Art and the St. George Tron Church. The Tolbooth and Tron Steeples are also served as great examples.

Ingram Street lies in the heart of the Merchant City

To see this theme being beautifully orchestrated, take a walk down Trongate St and continue into Argyle St. Start your walk on the eastern end from High St. As you walk westwards, take a look towards your right. You'll be looking at public building locating on Ingram St, which is considered the centre of the city. You would be rewarded with nice architecure that look back at you squarely from Ingram St looking like a cowboy ready for a quick draw with you (shoot them with your camera). I.e. the building's centre line is nicely aligned with the street's centre line, giving it a nice symmetry and focal points. (There's nothing interesting on the left to look at as it's the southern fringe of the city, or as the cops would say, "Move on! There's nothing to see here").

George Hutcheson

Hutchesons Hall, view from Trongate St with statues of Hutcheson Bros on 2 sides

Thomas Hutcheson

Ramshorn Kirk ('kirk' = 'Church' in Scottish)
staring down Candleriggs St, viewed from Trongate St

The Ramshorn Kirk was bought by University of Strathclyde, and is renamed to Ramshorn Theatre to reflect its new function.

Stately and imposing arches behind the Glasgow City Chamber
running on John St

Very little of this could be seen in London or Edinburgh. This usually happens when a city is continuously evolving, and ending up with irregular patchworks of building placements. Glasgow is given me the impression that the various building was being carefully placed as part of a grander city planning. Glasgow received the City of Architecture and Design award in 1999. Well, if they didn't get one, I'll surely happy to hand one out to them.

Another thing suggests to me that this placement is all part of the city design is the that the street names are usually named after the public buildings that run off it. E.g. St George Tron Church faces down George St. Hutcheson St runs off the Hutchesons Hall. To name just 2 examples.

Remember too that all the revenues that radiating from Arc de Triomphe Etoile is all part of city planning. something so symmetrical couldn't occur with the natural evolution of a city. It's happened by design, not by accident. As far as the percentage of such strategic placement of landmarks are concerned, Glasgow easily far exceeds that of Paris.

Another thing that I consider a plus because of the city small size, it's tourist number. You won't have to worry too much of the tourist queues, people blocking your cameras, etc. I had a distinct feeling that I was the only tourist in town. Well, I did see about 3 other people with cameras in the 2 days while I walked around the city. Mind you, this wasn't exactly high season or weekend with bad weather blowing in.

Quite often, I could stand in the middle of the road - the best vantage point - to take photos without being run over by the very low traffic volume (at least in the Merchant City area).

George Square with the imposing facade of the City Chambers

You can't explore the city without a visit to George Square. Well, ou can, but you'll miss a impsosing sight. If you get to Glasgow by train, this is the 1st sight you will be greeted as you exiting the Queen Street Railway Station. This is the city's square, the focal point of the city, a large public space where citizen could be assembled. Speaking of which, a political demonstration was being held on the date of the funeral of Lady Thatcher.

Political rally at George Square

Tommy Sheridan leading the campaign against the Bedroom Tax atop an open top bus (he probably tour the city on it afterwards)

Protesting against the Tories (open image in another window for a larger view to read better the message on the protester's back)

If you joined any guided tour in UK at all, you would be likely to be pointed out why some of the old private buildings have windows that were bricked up. As the Window Tax was based on the number of windows in a house, by bricking up the windows, less tax would be paid (this tax loophole was never bricked up). This policy was introduced in UK in the 18th and 19th centuries (as well as in  France and Spain). It's said, erroneously I might add, that the term 'daylight robbery' comes from this tax as it was a tax on light.

The Window Tax was repealed in 1851. But while one tax was thrown out the window, another - the Bedroom Tax - was thrown back into the window. The 2 taxes aim at the 2 opposite spectrum of the social classes. One aims at the rich while the other at reducing the social benefits of the welfare recipients.

While Margaret Thatcher didn't introduce the Bedroom Tax, she was the icon of Tory Party that introduced this tax barely a month ago (it's so new that it hasn't even a wikipedia entry yet). Several such rallies had been held previously, but this one was staged to coincide her funeral.

This is Francis Q, reporting live from Glasgow, over to you Tom, Dick and Harriet...

You can look at the rest of my photos for the day here.

Glasgow Day 1 - Teppanyaki restaurant

The Merchant of Glasgow. No Egg on My Face, Please, I'm on Holiday.

  7°C

Tolbooth Steeple and the 'Merchant City' sign
(open in another window for a larger view)

Fraser Suites locates in an area of Glasgow called the 'Merchant City'. Today this area is promoted as a leisure area with restaurants, bars, residences, and hotels.

Merchant shipping and and later ship building did much for the growth of Glasgow.

When I heard the term 'Merchant City', I thought it was synonymous with Glasgow. It only refers to the important part of the city centre. And much of architecture that tourists come to see are located in the 'Merchant City'.

Glasgow is a small city. While it's known as the "Second City of the British Empire" for much of the Victorian era and Edwardian period, it looks smaller than Scotland's other major city of Edinburgh. Glasgow may have larger population than Edinburgh, at least it doesn't feel that way.

'Tolbooth' is Scottish for 'Townhouse'.





This Victorian Gothic building houses Fraser Suites - where we stayed - and many retail stores and restaurants. If you like Victorian Gothic architecture, Glasgow has plenty to feast your eyes on. Not surprisingly as the city thrived during the Victorian Era.

Neo-Gothic building, location of Fraser Suites

This building is designed by JT Rochead, the same lad who designed the Wallace Monument near Stirling Castle, which we would visit tomorrow.

Of course, the size of a city could be measured in terms of population, physical size, etc. Or it could be experienced on the ground level, first hand.

For example, church bell is being rung on the hour to announce its arrival (or renewal), and more importantly being heard. The 1st time I heard it at 8am, I had the same surprise as when I was woken up at 6am by the Fajr (or Muslim dawn prayer) the 1st time I visited in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (back in early 1980s).

Highland high fashion

For a bigger city, such practise would be futile because the toll of church bells would be drown in a sea of traffic drone and car horns. This makes one feel like Glasgow is more of a large town than a city. The streets are quiet here.

In the olden times, a place was dominated by the sound of religion; in modern times, by the sound of commerce. And I was awoke by the old way.

Weegies - that's what the locals of Glasgow called themselves - is a friendly bunch. Not that city folks are a grumpy bunch necessarily. They're more polite than the neighbourly charms  that tend to be associated with a country town. Aloofness is part of the landscape of a Big Smoke. I witnessed that change as Sydney was transforming from a somewhat sleepy town to a busy metropolis in the last 3 decades. As people are living closer together, their emotional distance in the public are growing further apart.

Of course, all these are the benefits of living in a sleepy town. The downside is trying to get an authentic Asian cuisine. Well, you can't win them all.

The simple, elegant Merchant Square in Neo-Classical style locates near Fraser Suites

We arrived at Glasgow International Airport at 4pm. And Fraser Suites was only a short drive from the airport.

After unpacking, we headed straight for din din. The unusually prolonged winter of Europe this year and my poor circulation demanded for some piping hot soup. We walked around the area near Fraser Suites, and my eyes lit up with (not by) flashing lights when I saw a Sopporo restaurant sign. Such a cold weather called for a Japanese ramen noodle soup to warm my cockles (I wouldn't mind if they put some cockles in as they often do in Singapore).

The thrill was quickly turned cold by the realisation that no authentic Japanese could be expected from this quiet town. Well, I was desperate, and so becoming rather irrational and hoping hopelessly that I would be proven wrong. Glasgow would be the exception to the rule. I told myself.

As I approached closer, I realised it's a teppanyaki restaurant, not a noodle shop. There's nothing wrong with teppanyaki if we were planning for a lively dinner party, or if I had never experienced teppanyaki. I felt like having a quiet night, not performing acrobatic feats for public amusement of trying to catch fried egg with my mouth (if fails, egg on my face. Thanks, but no thanks).

In desperation, I entered with my crossed fingers in my back. The waiter told me that they did have noodle soup in their menu, and we could have it in a table in the bar area. Sounded good. I ordered a Tokyo miso ramen. When it came out, I knew it was wrong for me to expect to be proven wrong. All the years of travel had taught me nothing.

When the friendly waiter came to ask me how was the noodle soup, what else could I do but lied though my teeth that filled with unsavoury noodles? My reply was as genuine as the ramen noodle soup. Should have trusted my 1st instinct and went for fish and chips. I'm quite sure we had a happier ending.

That really took me back to memories of eating Asian cuisine in Sydney some 3 decades ago. Thanks for the memory.